(TIP): Before starting, get a medium Tupperware container to hold any loose parts (spacers, etc.), so that they don't get kicked around on floor or misplaced. ZipLock plastic bags work nice for grouping parts together - i.e. all brake caliper related bolts, plugs, etc.
(TIP): I have a habit of Labeling the baggies with a Sharpie Marker, especially when sizes are similar
(TIP): When bike is on jack, place appropriate thickness piece(s) of wood under front tire to prevent bike from teetering forward as you work on rear - you will notice that when bike is on jack it is easy to rock the bike forward when turning bolts, etc. Remember to adjust the height of wood each time your raise the bike and remove before you lower the bike.
1) Remove the bolt hole covers from left and right side of axle, rubber boot that covers torque link nut, and plastic plug from bolt in torque link.)
2) Remove torque link bolt (prior to jacking bike and put bolt, nut, and washer together in same position as they came off. The ridge on inside of nut holds the rubber boot on nut)
3) Break rear axle nut loose while bike is still on ground (more stable). (You will need to put a wrench on the head of axle bolt on left side to keep axle from turning while breaking axle nut loose.
(TIP): The longer the handle on your ratchet on the nut the easier it will be to break axle nut loose - or use a piece of pipe to extend ratchet handle.
4) Jack up bike just enough to take some weight off suspension but not enough to get rear wheel off ground
5) Loosen rear axle nut all the way then turn back on one thread (this will allow the swing arm to move outward providing just enough clearance to let you pivot the torque link down to get to both allen bolts that mount the caliper to torque link).
6) Pivot torque link down and remove forward caliper mounting bolt (allen bolt) from torque link.
(TIP): to make an allen socket that is long enough to get to caliper mounting bolts, take an 8mm hex wrench and cut it 3" from end of long section. This will give you a straight 8mm hex. Use a 6 point 8mm socket in combination with this piece of hex key and it works great.)
(TIP): Wrap the shaft of the hex key with electrical tape to prevent scratching paint on swing arm - clearance is very tight.)
7) Pivot torque link down a little more and remove rear caliper mounting bolt (allen bolt) from torque arm.
8) Lift caliper up and tie out of way with piece of cord to frame or grab rail.
9) Jack bike up only enough to fit a piece of paper between floor and tire
10) Remove axle nut completely
11) Use a wooden dowel and hammer to tap out axle slowly, removing torque link and spacer as axle passes through them.
12) Pull wheel to right side to disengage from final drive
13) Remove license tag - not bracket.
14) Jack bike up high enough to be able to roll wheel out clearing the license tag bracket.
15) Remove axle spacer from inside final drive and place in parts container
INSTALLATION
Reverse of above, but keep in mind the following:
(NOTE): Manufacturer recommends lithium based NLGI No.2 grease with molybdenum disulfide. I use synthetic grease with molybdenum disulfide. You will have to make your own decision on which you want to use.)
1) Place a light film of grease on axle. (If this is the first time the axle has been out, you will probably notice it came dry from factory.)
2) Place a light film grease inside and outside of long axle spacer that goes inside final drive.
3) Place a light film of grease on inside of all items in axle path (wheel bearings, right spacer, torque link.)
4) Grease splines on final drive and wheel
5) Stand a piece of 2x4 under the torque arm when tightening the caliper mounting bolts to keep torque arm from trying to pivot as you tighten bolts.
6) Remember to torque all bolts to manufacturer's specs.
Differences between this method the Clymer Manual:
1) Found no need to remove right shock absorber.
2) Found no need to loosen final drive case mounting nuts.
3) Found no need to apply rear brake while loosening or tightening rear axle nut. Since rear axle is isolated from turning action of wheel, applying brake has no affect on whether the axle will turn.
Hope this is helpful.
This method works well for me - I provide no guarantees, actual results may vary, only while supplies last, quantities may be limited, and all those other disclaimers.
Bob
Thanks to Capt1295 from the Cafe
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