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UNCORKING A
1400 SUZUKI INTRUDER

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If you are reading this you are either contemplating performing the un-corking process on your motorcycle or have made up you mind to do the process and are looking for instructions on how to physically do the un-corking process. The following steps are suggestions only and can be used, modified, or totally ignored by anyone attempting to perform the uncorking activity. Please understand that no warranty is either expressed or implied when performing this uncorking operation, meaning you are basically responsible for performing this activity on your own. That said, please be it known that there is HELP out there on the WWW. Many situations or problems can be solved while asking questions on IntruderAlert.com.

This write up does not provide any information on what main jets sizes, pilot jet sizes, needle settings or wind deflector techniques to use. There is information available when performing research on the Intruder Alert web page as well as talking to members of Intruder Alert. Where possible I have tried to list the tools required to perform the work activity. I also listed any replacement parts or materials used while performing the uncorking process. Because some of the screws are very soft and the heads can be damaged while removing them, consider replacing them.

This uncorking project was performed on a 1995, 1400 Suzuki Intruder. I elected to perform the full uncork to maximize the air flow into the engine. To perform this un-cork I removed the front air box and modified the rear air box. This eliminates any contemplation of enough air reaching the air filter medium such as drilling holes in the existing air boxes.

JET KIT:
I decided to use a Factory Pro Jet Kit. They can be found at Factory Pro Phone number 800-869-0497 or 1-415-491-5920. I purchased the CRB-S49-3.0 Config 30 Carb recal Jet Kit.

 
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Air Filters:
K&N RU-1820’s for front and rear.

10MM socket, long extension
Remove the rear saddle by removing the backrest pad and pulling it off of the backrest. Remove the trap door of the tool box with your key. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the tool box cubby with a 10 MM socket. This will allow you to remove the rear saddle by pulling it forward.

8MM socket
Remove the drivers saddle by un-bolting the two bolts on the rear of the saddle by using an 8MM socket. Remove the metal bracket for the rear saddle at this time so it is out of your way. Remove the front saddle slightly and turn the saddle on its side. Un-hook the two electrical connections from the underneath side of the seat.

8MM socket Screwdriver Pliers
Remove the fuel tank by removing the two bolts with an 8MM socket at the back end of the fuel tank. These two bolts also hold a bracket that secures the front portion of the drivers saddle. Be careful when removing these bolts and pay attention to the locations of the rubber bushings on top and bottom of the fuel tank mounting bracket. Remove these two bolts and remove the bracket for the front saddle. Grasp the fuel tank and pull it backwards, wiggling it to free it from the rubber mount on the front of the tank. Once the tank is loose on the front end the fuel hoses must be removed from the underneath side of the tank. Before these hoses are removed the fuel valve on the underneath side of the fuel tank must be shut off. Use a long handled regular blade screwdriver and turn the fuel tank shut off valve to the closed position. The slot in the post must be in a horizontal position to be closed. After the valve is in the closed position, remove the hose clamps with pliers and remove the two fuel hoses. It is a good idea to mark one of the hoses so you know what hose goes to which nozzle on the fuel tank shut off valve. One hose is for the main tank and the other hose is for the “Reserve” line. If these hoses are installed backwards you could run out of fuel on the reserve when your fuel valve is set to the run or main position and you will be completely out of fuel. If this happens you can remember this warning while walking to the gas station to get more fuel. A small amount of fuel will exit the hoses so be prepared. Once the hoses have been removed the fuel tank can be removed completely off the motorcycle.

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Phillips screwdriver
Remove the front bracket for the fuel tank by removing the rubber mount from the front fuel tank bracket. Remove the 4 each Phillips head screws from this bracket.

Phillips screwdriver shorty, Small Phillips screwdriver
Remove the front frame side covers to provide access to the front air box. Remove the covers by taking out the Three Phillips head screws on the front of these covers. Pay attention because the left cover should be removed first since it mounts over the right hand cover. The Phillips head screws in the lower arms of both front side frame covers must also be removed so the covers can be removed. These are located down near the exhaust header pipe manifold connections.

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10MM Socket, 10MM combo wrench
Remove the chrome cover from the front right hand side of the front cylinder by removing the bolts with a 10MM socket or wrench. There might not be enough room to get the socket and the driver in the space between these bolts and the frame so a 10MM combination wrench might also be required here. Removal of this cover allows more room to access the front air box for removal.

FRONT AIR BOX REMOVAL

Phillips screwdriver
Remove the boot between the front air box and the front carb by removing the clamps attaching this boot. Small Phillips head screws are used in these clamps. Wipe the area down so no dust or foreign materials can enter into the front carb intake since it will be open when this boot is removed. Stuff a clean rag into the front carb intake after the boot is removed

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Phillips screwdriver
Remove the throttle cables from the lid of the front air box by removing the 2 each Phillips head screws. The throttle cables will be mounted elsewhere since the front air box will be absent when this procedure is completed.

10MM socket 10MM combo wrench
Remove the front air box by removing the bolt found at the rear right hand side of the air box. Then remove the bolt located on the bottom front of the air box. The front bolt is underneath the air box, above the front cylinder, and directly behind the oil cooler. Some folks unbolt the oil cooler and lower it down to provide access to this front bolt. Use a 10MM socket or wrench to remove these bolts.

Pliers
Remove the two each hoses that attach to the front air box in the lower left hand portion in the front of the air box. One of these hoses is the front cylinder re-breather hose and the other hose is a drainage hose for the front air box. These hoses are connected with hose clamps but they might pull lose on their own because they are not a tight or critical connection. If not, use a pair of pliers to remove the hose clamps and then pull these hoses off from the front air box.

Remove the front air box by grasping it and pulling it upward and backwards through the top of the frame. Some of the existing throttle cables and electrical cables will have to be separated and spread apart to fit the air box out the top.


FRONT CARB RE- JETTING

FRONT CARB NEEDLE JET NEEDLE

Phillips screwdriverImpact screwdriver or Cordless drill Drill bits Easy outs Extractors
Remove the cover, gold in color on the top of the carb to provide access to the needle jet needle. Remove the 4 phillips head screws to remove this cover plate. These screws are very soft and can be rather difficult to remove. I used a cordless drill with a low power setting and chuck torque adjusted to its lightest setting and increased the torque setting from there to be able to get these screws loose. Remember to push hard and have a Phillips tip slightly larger than what you think is needed to remove these screws. Seriously consider replacing these screws with allen socket cap head screws for a better and for functional screw. Remove the front cover but make sure you are paying attention to the orientation of the cover. You might consider match-marking the cover to help you here during the installation to get the cover back on right. Also observe the orientation of the diaphragm in case it rotates some on you in one of the next steps. There is a large slinky style spring beneath this cover plate and it must also be removed.

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Phillips screwdriver Magnetic screwdriver Needle-nose pliers
To remove the needle jet needle you must remove the small screws in the bottom of the piston valve diaphragm where the large spring was removed. These little brass screws can also be difficult to remove. You must hold the housing of the diaphragm because it will rotate when trying to break these screws loose. Once the screws are loose remove them, being careful to observe how the stopper plate is positioned in the bottom of the piston valve diaphragm. A small magnet can be helpful here to remove these screws and the cover place. Beneath the cover plate is a white plastic spacer over the end of the needle. Below the white spacer is an e-clip mounted into a grove on the needle and then a small metal washer below the e-clip. Remove all of these items by using a pair of needle-nosed pliers. There is also a small spring below the washer and it should remain in place.

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Needle-nose pliers Magnetic screwdriver 3MM x .50 pitch x 6MM long
Install the new needle jet with the e-clip in the position to your liking, counting from the top of the needle down. Install the needle with the metal washer, e-clip and white plastic bushing as it was found. Install the metal stopping plate with the 2 small screws in the same orientation as what you found it. You might consider using new screws to replace these screws for future use.

3MM allen wrench 5MM x .80 pitch x 12MM long
Now install the large spring, check to make sure the diaphragm is in its correct orientation and reinstall the large cover. Replace the 4 screws holding this cover on. Phillips screwdriver

FRONT CARB MAIN JET AND PILOT JET

Pliers
Remove the fuel line going to the rear carb. This is located on the front, right hand side of the front carb. Use the pliers to open the hose clamp, pull the clamp upward and then remove the hose. This will provide better mobility of the carb.

Phillips screwdriver
Remove the choke handle where it connects to the frame of the motorcycle on the front left hand side by using a large Phillips headed screw driver. This will provide more mobility for removing the front carb.

Phillips screwdriver
Undo the Phillips head screw that holds the hose clamp together where the front carb attaches to the rubber intake manifold. This intake manifold is right where the manifold connects to the rear of the front cylinder. Remove this phillips head screw entirely, spread the hose clap and remove it. Now pull and twist the front carb until it is free from the intake manifold boot.

Gently remove the carb from the position by spreading the electrical and other cables and pull the carb upward. Turn the carb upside down so there is access to the 4 screws on the bottom of the carb that holds the float bowl cover to the main body of the carb.

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Remove the 4 phillips head screws that hold the float bowl cover. This will provide you access to the main jet and pilot jet in the carb. Be careful not to damage the o-ring around the perimeter of this cover on the inside. Also, there might be some residual fuel remaining in the float bowl that may run out when you have this cover loose.

Screwdriver
Change out the main jets and pilot jets as applicable with this cover off. Replace the float cover and re-install the 4 phillips head screws.

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Turn carb right-side up, put carb back into the frame in its original position. Insert carb back onto the intake manifold hose, making sure the carb is fully inserted properly into this hose. Re-install the hose clamp and Phillips head screw and secure the carb to this intake manifold. Operate the choke cable and make sure the choke slide plate located on the rear of the carb not only opens but returns to its closed position. Re-install the fuel line that comes from the rear carb that was removed on the front right hand side of the carb. Make sure the throttle cables and sync cables are still attached to the carb. Phillips screwdriver


REAR CARB RE- JETTING

REAR CARB NEEDLE JET NEEDLE

Phillips screwdriver Impact screwdriver or Cordless drill Drill bits Easy outs Extractors 4mm X .70 PITCH X 12mm long
Remove the access cover to the needle same as the front carb, changing out the needle and reinstall the cover as previously mentioned. Remove the cover, gold in color on the top of the carb to provide access to the needle jet needle. Remove the 4 phillips head screws to remove this cover plate. These screws are very soft and can be rather difficult to remove. I used a cordless drill with a low power setting and chuck torque adjusted to its lightest setting and increased the torque setting from there to be able to get these screws loose. Remember to push hard and have a Phillips tip slightly larger than what you think is needed to remove these screws. Seriously consider replacing these screws with allen socket cap head screws for better reusable capabilities. Remove the front cover but make sure you are paying attention to the orientation of the cover. You might consider match-marking the cover to help you here during the installation to get the cover back on right. Also observe the orientation of the diaphragm in case it rotates some on you in one of the next steps. There is a large slinky style spring beneath this cover plate and it must also be removed.

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REAR CARB MAIN JET AND PILOT JET

Remove both right and left side rear side frame covers by removing the 2 phillips head screws and lifting the covers of from the mounting pegs on the lower portions of the covers. This will provide better access to perform carb work and modification work on the rear air box.

Allen wrench
Undo main fuel control valve on the left hand side of the motorcycle by using an allen head wrench. Once this valve is loose it can be moved some to provide better access to the hose clamp screw holding the rear carb to the rear cylinder intake manifold.

Phillips head screwdriver
Remove the plastic mounting bar for the main electrical harness in front of the rear fender and above the rear air box. This is held on with 2 large Phillips head screws. This will provide more access to work the rear carb by allowing you to separate the cables easier. Some of these cables can be unhooked from each other at their respective connectors to allow for even better mobility of the cables and the harness.

Pliers
Remove the main fuel line hose going to the rear carb. This hose connects to the carb at the rear of the carb on the left hand side and enters the carb from below. Make sure and cover the open end of this fuel line to keep out debris and foreign materials while performing other work in this area.

Undo the Phillips head screw in the hose clamp that connects the rear carb to the rear intake manifold hose. Remove this screw from the hose clamp. Remove the hose clamp from the hose to allow the rear carb to be removed from the intake manifold hose. Remove the rear carb from the intake manifold hose and pull the rear carb upward and out of the frame being careful of the limited mobility due to the throttle cables, sync cables and choke cable. Pay particular attention to the choke cable to see how the end of it is inside of the rubber boot located on the front left hand side of the rear carb.

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Turn the carb over, remove the access to the float bowl and change out the main jets and pilot jet as required. Replace the float bowl cover as previously mentioned.

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String
Secure the carb out of the frame and in a position to provide access to work on the rear air box.

REAR AIR BOX MODIFICATION
Remove the rear air box cover on the right hand side to provide access to the rear air filter. Remove the screw on the bottom of this cover and remove the cover by pulling it downward. Remove the rear air filter.

Drill Dremel Saw
Remove the plastic grid pieces that are found behind where the foam air filter was located. These plastic grid pieces are on top of the screen material. These must be cut out with a knife, saw or other tool. I used a dremel tool to remove these. Next remove the screen material to open up the right side of the air box. Wear gloves for this work. Do not remover the lower portion of this air box where the metal cover mount peg is located because this lower bulge is the actual exterior portion of the motorcycle.

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Clean entire area with a vacuum cleaner prior to proceeding with any work.
Drill Dremel Saw

Remove the entire top portion of the rear air box by cutting the existing plastic material. Be careful not to weaken the support areas of the top where the air box bolts to the rear frame cross member. Also, there is a strip of metal about ½” wide along the top of the air box along the right hand side opening and it can not be cut and removed. Now remove the front portion of the air box. Be extremely careful you do not cut into the electrical cables on the front of the air box. I used a paint stick and inserted it between the air box and the cables, while cutting the air box from the inside with a dremel tool. I left part of the vertical wall about ½” above the bottom of the air box to keep the curved portion of the box intact for added strength. I also removed about the front 1/3rd of the left side of the air box to get as much air as possible to that rear carb. Be careful here as to how much you remove because some electrical and mechanical parts are connected to the left portion of the air box. Make sure the open fuel line is covered to keep plastic material from entering it. Also, make sure the openings in the rear cylinder and the rear carb are covered to keep this flying debris from entering these areas.

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RE-INSTALL REAR CARB

Pliers Phillips screwdriver
Un-secure the rear carb where it was being held out of the way and insert it back down through the electrical cables and the throttle cables so it is back into its final position. Install the fuel line to the bottom of the carb that was previously removed. Insert the rear carb back into the rear cylinder intake manifold on the rear of the rear cylinder. Make sure the carb is properly installed into this intake manifold hose. Install the hose clamp around the rear cylinder intake manifold and install the Phillips head screw and tighten this down. A magnetic screw driver can help with the installation of this screw. Check the choke cable and make sure the end of the cable is inserted down into the rubber boot on the front left hand side of the rear carb. Check the throttle cable and sync cables to make sure they are attached, not bound up and will function properly.

Screwdriver K&N RU-1820 air filter
Install the rear K&N RU-1820 air filter by using the hose clamp and install the air filter directly to the inlet flange on the rear carb. Make sure the filter you are installing has been
properly oiled.

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Phillips screwdriver
Re-install the main electrical harness by using the large head Phillips head screws and mount the plastic bracket to the frame. Reattach any electrical connections that were undone to provide for better access and mobility of the electrical harness.

Allen wrench
Re-install the main fuel line valve on the left side of the motorcycle that was removed to provide access to the rear intake manifold hose clamp screw.

Phillips screwdriver 6MM X 12MM
Re-install the rear left and right side metal panels making sure the lower portions are secured over the mounting pegs and then attaching the top of the covers to the frame using the Phillips head screws.

Phillips screwdriver
Re-install the choke operation knob to the frame on the front left hand side of the motorcycle by using the large Phillips head screw. Operate this a few times to make sure it is functioning properly.

10MM socket 10MM combo wrench
Install the chrome cylinder head cover on the right hand side of the front cylinder using the bolts that were removed. Use the 10MM socket or combination wrench to secure these adequately

Crankcase re-breather filterI used a FRAM BA6591 for auto

Some suggest connecting the crankcase re-breather hose located on the top of the front cylinder to the front air box drain hose that was also removed. This did not make sense to me because the drain hose has a built in one-way check valve on the lower end of the hose. This seems like it would not allow any air to get to the crankcase re-breather hose. I elected to put a crankcase re-breather filter onto the crankcase re-breather hose and removed the front air box drain hose completely.

Many discussions have been made about the installation of a front wind deflector to keep out the gusts of wind that would sporadically cause a lean condition on the front carb. Not much information has been provided in what this wind deflector looks like. Some claim they are not using one and others won’t say. In following with the tradition I am not going to say what or if I did anything in this area.

3MM allen wrench 6MM x12 4MM X20
Install the front side frame covers back onto the frame. You might want to consider using three 6MM x 12 hex socket cap screws to replace the three existing Phillips head screws for this. Makes for easier installation and removal. I also used 4mm x 20 allen head cap screws to replace the small Phillips head screws for the connections at the bottoms of these front side panels to make them more user friendly.

Allen wrench 6MM x 20MM
Install the front bracket for the fuel tank. You might also consider using 4 each 6MM x 20 hex head cap screws to replace the existing Phillips head screws here as well. Make sure to include flat and lock washers if you change to the hex head cap screws.

Screwdriver K&N RU-1820 air filter
Install the front K&N RU-1820 air filter. Attach the filter to the front carb intake flange by
using the hose clamp provided with the filter.

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Secure the throttle cables to the existing electrical cables using electrical ties. These are the cables that used to bolt to the top lid of the front air box but can’t since the front air box is now removed. Make sure these cables do not get into a bind when installing the fuel tank. Electrical cable ties

Pliers screwdriver New hose clamps
Re-attach the fuel lines to the fuel tank shut-off valve on the underneath side of the fuel tank. Make sure you put the correct hose back onto the correct hose fitting. Install the hose clamps so they attach the hoses to the nozzles. You might want to consider using new hose clamps to attach these fuel lines to the fuel tank to minimize any possibility of fuel leaks. New clamps can be found at the automotive parts stores. Don’t forget to turn the main fuel tank valve back to the open position, [slot in the vertical position], so fuel can flow from the fuel tank.

Install the fuel tank by inserting the front end of the tank into the rubber mounting bracket on the front, being careful to not kink or bind the throttle cables or fuel lines. Wd-40 Will Help with sliding tank into the bracket

8MM socket
Install the bracket for the front saddle attachment with the spacer bushings for the rear fuel tank mounting bracket. Install the bolts and tighten these with the 8MM socket

8MM socket
Install the front saddle by first plugging in the two each electrical connections to the components beneath the front saddle. Then install the front saddle by lowering it so the front prong will slide under the front bracket and push the saddle rearward so the rear holes line up with the holes in the rear fender for mounting the rear saddle bracket and the holes in the bracket for the front saddle. Install the rear saddle bracket and tighten these bolts with the 8MM socket.

10MM socket
Install the rear saddle by lowering the front so the prong on the underneath side of the saddle slides beneath the bracket and align up the hole on the rear of the saddle with the single hole in the top of the rear fender at the bottom of the tool box caddy. Install the single bolt and tighten it with a 10 MM socket.

Ignition Key
Install tool box and the rear back rest pad onto the tool box cover.

Screwdriver
Adjust fuel air mixture screws to approximately 2 turns counter clockwise from its full softly tightened position.

Screwdriver
Start up the motorcycle and let it warm up, then adjust fuel air mix screws for best idle. Enjoy!



This Write Up Courtesy Of Bigskytruder From The Cafe

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There is a lot of useful information on this site, but errors are possible
All Images/external links open in New Tab
Helpful answers are $1.00 each dumb looks are still FREE
These Tips come from many people, on the various
motorcycle forums I frequent.
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Note: "VS" Intruders & "S" series Boulevards
I started gathering this information in 2002
Some of it has been collected since 1985

Some information (parts & part numbers/suppliers etc...) are no longer
available or have Changed. The Information contained in these pages,
should be considered to be a
GUIDE
, on where to start YOUR search if information has Changed
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If You Attempt Modifications & Ruin Your Motorcycle

It Is Your Problem.
If You Are Not Mechanically Inclined,
Get Help From Someone Who Is

I Am Not Responsible For Use/Misuse Of These Tips & Tricks
Use @ Your Discretion

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© 2002-------> Intruder Alert.Ca