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Over
the last year, a few IAers have PM'd me about the cut down backrest on my bike.
In case others are interested, here is the procedure I followed. The original
idea and procedure was generously shared with me on this board, but unfortunately
I don't remember who it was.
The cutdown is fairly easy - no special tools needed: a accurate ruler, a hacksaw with a sharp fine tooth blade, and a drill with a small grinding wheel attachment.
To get ready, remove the backrest pad, open and unbolt the toolbox from the backrest “arms”, and remove the top bar and toolbox.. Notice that the bolts to the top bar will fit into the bolt holes that hold the toolbox in place. Later, you will reverse the top bar and bolt it into the lower holes.
1. With the top bar removed, MEASURE down each arm 5 inches, mark the spot and wrap a piece of masking tape all the way around the arm below the mark. This is your cutting guide.
2. HACKSAW 5"s off the top of each arm. You will be sawing from the INSIDE of the arm out. To make the hacksaw fit, put the blade in the saw upside down and put the saw OVER the arm you will cut. Use the masking tape as the guide and SLOWLY cut thru the arm. The support from the U-shaped cross-section will give you a very clean flat cut - better than using a dremmel tool. Repeat on the other arm. Once you are thru the chrome at the tips, the metal is soft and will cut easily.
3. Reverse the top bar and try to insert it into the arms. The fit is tight, and you will notice that it won't slide past the raised metal next to the bolt hole. You will need to GRIND OUT space next to the bolt hole with a 1/4" grinding wheel on the end of a drill. Do it on both arms. When you can insert the top bar all the way in, the bolt holes will line up, and the back of the top bar will be flush with the back side of the arms. If you didn’t cut down enough, flat file the top of what’s left of the arms. File slowly, because the metal is soft and will file down fast.
4.
Because you removed 5" of taper, the width of the arm is now wider than
the width of the top bar - making an unsightly step. To COVER THE STEP, find
a flat dense piece of rubber about 1/8” thick and trim it to fit between
the arm and top bar. I flat filed the arm down just enough for the rubber to
fit, glued the rubber down to the top of the bar arm, and bolted down the top
bar. The result is a rock solid handle just behind the seat.
This is a one-way trip, so if you don’t like the result, you can do away
with the backrest all together with a Cobra “backrest removal kit”.
But with the cut down, you don’t need to relocate the turn signals; it
matches the contour of the seat, and is actually a very handy tie-down.
This Tip Courtesy Of Ruder From The Cafe
There
is a lot of useful information on this site, but errors are possible
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Helpful
answers are $1.00 each
dumb looks are still FREE
These Tips come from many people,
on the various
motorcycle forums I frequent.
If You Attempt Modifications & Ruin Your Motorcycle
It Is Your Problem.
If You Are Not Mechanically Inclined,
Get Help From Someone Who Is
I Am Not Responsible For Use/Misuse Of These Tips &
Tricks
Use @ Your Discretion
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2002-------> Intruder Alert.Ca |
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