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1987 -1999 VS1400 Intruders had Silver Motors
You
will need:
1
can 500deg. Wrinkle black (Dennis Kirk) (optional)
1 can 500 deg. flat black (local auto parts)
1 can 550deg. Clear " " (Optional)
1 roll masking tape masking paper - I used printer
paper NO NEWSPAPER
1 1" cut-in pad w/ handle (used for interior
house painting)
1 piece off one of your wife's best pair of nylon
hose
several scrap wood blocks approximately 3x3x3/4
a few wood paint stirring sticks
4 pieces1/2 emt conduit ½" long, or
4 stacks 5/8 washers totaling ½" high each
sandpaper:
1 sheet ea.; 80,100,150,200 grit aluminum oxide
paper
320.400,600,800 wet or dry paper
1 coarse scotch-brite pad or coarse steel wool
mineral spirits (lacquer thinner may be used with EXTREME CAUTION will remove
paint on contact)
3 large drop cloths
rope or string
rags
Tools needed:
assorted metric sockets, wrenches and allen wrenches
screwdrivers
razor blades
4 ratchet-type bike tie down straps
4 c-clamps or 4 heavy duty eye bolts
These instructions are intended to be a guide only , If you think of a better way to do something, have at it. After all I'm no mechanic, just a backyard tinkered, and that's the point, nothing in this project requires readjusting by a mechanic or use of specialized tools. Basically, you are going to remove as much of the "easy bolt on stuff" as you can to give you clear access to the engine to paint, masking off the rest. If you take your time when masking, your end result will look as though it was painted before assembly at the factory not spray-can painted in the frame. I REPEAT, IT IS NOT NECESSARY OR RECOMMENDED THAT ANY CARB OR FLUID LINES BE LOOSENED OR DISCONNECTED.
1) remove seats, tank and side covers (Click Here)
2) hook 1 tie-down on each handlebar and one at each side on the back. You are going to be suspending the bike upright from all 4 corners to the ceiling with either c-clamps attached to exposed joists (as I did ) or eye bolts anchored into joists if you have sheetrock. Make sure to widen your bolt pattern in all 4 directions. Tighten each a little at a time, until the bike is fully upright off the stand and can't move.
3) drain oil and remove filter, allow filter base to finish dripping (several hours), clean both areas w/ mineral spirits, reinstall plug and put a piece of rag in filter base.
4) remove pipes, block ports with rags
5) remove chrome cover to rear brake master, then bracket on bat box
6) lower bat box, disconnect leads, then remove bat, and box.
7) disconnect starter wire, remove starter leaving oil tube bracket on tube, block hole with rag
8) disconnect the oil tubes from each side by the oil filter, then remove the oil cooler itself.
9) disconnect the oil sending unit behind the rear brake pedal and open the retaining clips holding the sending unit wire under the case cover
10) Disconnect the transmission linkage at the rear point taking note of it's angle for when you reconnect it. Open the retaining clips holding the kick stand shut-off wire located under that case cover
11) remove bolts to foot peg /kick stand assembly. ( 2outer per side have cotter pins) Let assembly rest on floor and hanging by the wires and brake line. DO NOT DISCONNECT BRAKE LINE
12) for masking purposes, note the engine case and chrome bolts under the chrome transmission cover, that are not hidden by the cover, then remove transmission cover
13) remove engine mount bolt located under the key switch
14) remove both the fuel petcock and key switch retaining bolts
15) remove plastic plugs, bolts and brackets on both sides, which held the motor mount just removed
16) retract fuel lines from tank area to petcock taking note of their routing
17) tuck petcock, key switch, lines and fuel pump as far back as possible towards the rear wheel and secure with string
18) Remove chrome covers over spark plugs, remove plug tape exposed end, and replace finger tight.
19) Remove other 2 chrome head covers and replace the 101/2" bolts using stacked washers or sleeves totaling approximately. ½" so that the bolts protrude into the case no further than they would have with the covers on.
20) remove horn
21) remove hose from top of front cylinder. Head and tuck up behind air box, tape inlet tube
22) use 1 dropcloth and wrap handlebars and entire front end, lay 1 dropcloth across seat area, tuck sides around frame behind engine and around entire back end, the last cloth is laid over the foot peg assembly on the floor.
23) throughly clean engine w mineral spirits, once your sure its clean, do it again w clean rags. (My bike was new and garage kept if yours is not, keep cleaning or you will wish you had.)
24) do your detail masking first, reach in with bits of masking tape stuck on a flat screwdriver and tape all chrome and silver bolts, there are a lot, even under the bike, how many you do depends on how much detail you want. I did all brackets and everything even under the chrome covers.( Paint the dark green, tape all silver gold and chrome)
25) use paper to wrap around frame tubes and tape ends ( allow as little tape to contact painted areas as possible, less residue to clean later)
26) mask remainder of exposed areas taking care to just cover edges and gaskets ( for example, if your gasket under the right chrome case cover is properly masked, it will remain brown and become a convincing sign of a factory job)
27) use scotch-brite, steel wool and low grit paper wrapped around paint stir sticks to scuff and sand case, cooling fins and top of heads, vacuum residue
28) Painting, if you want to use wrinkle paint you should practice on scrap first. Get used to curing with a hair dryer to produce uniform wrinkles, it is tricky. Mask the serial and gear selection numbers on the case, also oil fill, these can be painted flat black later. Once you feel confident, begin painting the lower case only up to the lowest small cooling fin (take my word for it, wrinkle black resembles grease when sprayed between the cooling fins) do your starter housing, and end caps if not chromed. Paint fins and heads with flat black next, then recoat the case with flat black. (You can skip the wrinkle entirely, painting all areas with flat black is easier and less expensive) dry overnight.
29) prepare wood blocks and stir sticks with sand paper of the lowest grit. Take a razor blade and carefully scrape the paint off the leading edge of all the fins, even way in between the heads. Begin sanding with blocks on face and sticks in the tight areas, make sure to keep flat against the fin. Do not use you fingers as you will round fins and remove paint from more than the leading edge. While you are using the lowest grit, take the time to contour the fins to your choosing. Progress up through the grits keeping the finish uniform. If a brushed aluminum finish is what you are after, you can stop at 150, for polish go to 800. Not as bad as it sounds, a polish can be done in less than 2 hours.
30)
If you choose a polish you will want to keep it shinny and protect it from oxidation.
Wrap the sponge of the cut-in pad with a piece of your old lady's nylon hose.
This keeps the nap of the sponge from wrapping around the edge of the fins and
turning your flat black into high gloss. Spray the pad then apply. Carefully
apply several coats of clear.
Congratulations! It's all down hill from here, put it back together in reverse.
Extra Tips
1) when masking hard to get to areas or bolts, its easier and neater if you use bits of tape at a time rather than trying to wrap all the way around with one piece. Try sticking them on a small screw driver and wrapping with another.
2) put cheap oil and your old filter back on, run 5 min. Drain, replace filter and fill with good oil.
3) make sure none of the rags used to cover various holes fell in
4) clean air filters before starting
5) if you send your starter end caps out for chroming, don't bother sending the housing. It has integral magnets which may be affected by the process.
6) put all bolts immediately back in the proper holes on whatever was removed and secure with masking tape. Less confusion later
7) If your memory is as bad as mine try using a camcorder to film disassembly of certain parts
8) get a "feel" for the tension on every bolt you loosen, chances are you couldn't get a torque wrench in there anyway. As I recall torque specs. Ranged from 10-20 ft lbs. My wrench doesn't go below 25 . I figured a little past snug was 20 ft lbs. What do you think?
Good
Luck, Let me know how it goes!
Howard
Wilmot was a member of the Cafe
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answers are $1.00 each
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These Tips come from many people,
on the various
motorcycle forums I frequent.
Note:
"VS" Intruders & "S" series Boulevards
I started gathering this information in 2002
Some of it has been collected since 1985
Some information (parts & part numbers/suppliers etc...)
are no longer
available or have Changed. The Information contained in these pages,
should be considered to be a
GUIDE, on where to start YOUR search if
information has Changed
If You Attempt Modifications & Ruin Your Motorcycle
It Is Your Problem.
If You Are Not Mechanically Inclined,
Get Help From Someone Who Is
I Am Not Responsible For Use/Misuse Of These Tips &
Tricks
Use @ Your Discretion
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2002-------> Intruder Alert.Ca |
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